Comuna 13 is today the most popular visit in Medellin and one of the most important in Colombia. Twenty years ago it was the most violent neighbourhood in the most violent city in the world; today it is a place full of art, music and family businesses that welcomes thousands of visitors every day. This guide explains what it is, how to visit and what not to miss.
A bit of history
Comuna 13 (San Javier) grew on the western hillsides of Medellin with families displaced from the countryside. During the 90s and early 2000s it was fought over by guerrillas, paramilitaries and gangs, until the military operations of 2002, the best known being Operation Orion. What came after, with public investment, the escalators in 2011 and above all the work of the residents themselves, is what you visit today. The graffiti is not decoration: it tells that story.
What to see
- The escalators: 384 metres of outdoor escalators that replaced more than 350 steps. They are the symbol of the neighbourhood.
- The graffiti: there are hundreds. The most important speak of the neighbourhood's memory, of women and of peace. A local guide will tell you who painted each one and why.
- The viewpoints: from the top you see the whole Aburrá valley.
- Music and dance: hip hop and breakdance crews perform in the squares, especially in the afternoon.
- Local businesses: mango biche ice cream, the neighbourhood's craft beer, handicrafts. Buying here is the best way to support the Comuna.
How to get there
Take the metro to San Javier station (line B) and from there a bus, a taxi or a 15-minute uphill walk to the start of the escalators. If you come on a private tour, the transport drops you at the door.
Best time to go
- Morning (9–11 am): fewer people, better light for photos, calm atmosphere.
- Afternoon (3–6 pm): livelier, live music and dancers. Also more crowded.
Avoid public holidays if you don't like crowds.
Do you need a guide?
You can visit on your own and the tourist area is safe. But Comuna 13 without context is a neighbourhood with pretty graffiti; with a guide from the area it is one of the most powerful transformation stories you will ever hear. Our private Comuna 13 tour lasts 3 to 4 hours, includes private transport and a food stop, and is led by someone who grew up there.
Combine it
Comuna 13 fits perfectly with the viewpoints tour in the afternoon, or inside the 3-day Medellin itinerary we recommend.
